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Robert M. Shipley, who founded the Gemological
Institute of America (GIA) in 1931, also founded
the American Gem Society (AGS) in 1934. the
mission of the American Gem Society is to
promote ethics, knowledge, and consumer protection.
Throughout the world there are many diamond
grading systems. Only the AGS and GIA systems
qualify and quantify grades with specific
and accurate terms detailing the carat weight
usually has the greatest impact on value,
based on rarity.
THE FOUR Cs
The four Cs; Color, Cut, Clarity, and Carat
Weight, are factors that will help you make
an intelligent choice with confidence. Cut,
color, and clarity are quality or rarity factors.
Though some aspects of quality seem subtle,
they may have a major impact on value. Carat
weight is a value factor. When making a purchase,
a consumer must balance the three quality
factors with size to obtain the best value
within their budget.
COLOR
This is the amount or presence of body color
in a diamond. The most rare diamond colors
are red, pink, green, and blue. Diamonds that
display enough of a hue, or nuance of color
to be desirable, are called fancy-colored
diamonds.
The complete absence of color in diamonds
is also rare and highly prized. Most diamonds
mined in nature have traces of yellow, some
brown or gray. The range of color most often
represented and sold in jewelry stores are:
AGS grades 0-.30 and GIA grades D-J.
CUT
In its rough state, a diamond's beauty is
well concealed. Cutting reveals its magnificent
optical beauty. A diamond cutter's challenge
is to balance beauty with weight retention
from the rough diamond crystal. In the best-case
scenario, approximately 50% of the weight
is lost from the original crystal in the cutting
process. Because size is important to many
consumers, often cutters sacrifice diamond
beauty in order to save weight, maximizing
the size of the finished diamond.
Shape an cut are not the same. Diamonds are
cut in many shapes; round brilliant, pear,
oval, marquise, emerald cut (rectangular),
heart and triangle. The most popular shape
is the round brilliant. The other shapes are
referred to as fancy-shapes.
In the past diamonds were analyzed, not graded,
for cut by visual estimation. Today, the angels
and proportions relating to the quality of
cut are determined electronically. A diamond's
finish, including polish and symmetry, is
graded by human examination through a binocular
microscope.
CLARITY
This is the presence or absence of inclusions
within the diamond and blemishes on its surfaces.
A diamond's clarity grade is determined through
examination by an experienced grader, using
10x magnification and also the assessment
of the trained, unaided eye. The AGS Lab utilizes
binocular microscopes for clarity grading,
which provide the best optical, lighting,
and viewing conditions.
According to the Federal Trade Commission,
only a diamond that is flawless, colorless
and well cut can be referred to as "perfect."
therefore, it is NOT applicable in most cases.
CARAT WEIGHT
The fourth and final C is carat weight, the
standard generally used to measure diamonds.
In the early 1900s the Metric Carat was established:
1 Carat = .2 Gram.
There are 100 points to a carat. The FTC
tolerance for what is rounded up is 1/2 point.
For example, .995 = 1.00 carat. The AGS uses
the international diamond standard tolerance
for rounding which is 1/10 point. For example,
.999 = 1.00 carat.
A full carat is a diamond that weighs or
rounds to 1.00 carat. A light carat is a diamond
that weighs slightly less than 1.00 carat.
Example, .96-.99. This IS NOT a full carat.
Magic size diamonds are those that weigh-in
exactly at or greater than a major size category.
Most fancy-shaped diamonds are elongated
in shape and appear larger than a comparable
round brilliant diamond. In addition, in most
cases, fancy-shaped diamonds are priced less
than round brilliants.
A diamond grading report is an expert third-party
opinion of the diamond quality. The diamond
grading report contains information on identification,
enhancements, carat weight, shape outline,
measurements, color, clarity, and cut. A consumer
can then utilize this documentation to insure
the diamond for replacement in case of loss
or theft.
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HARDNESS
(Scratch Resistance)
10 on the Moh's Scale. The world's hardest
substance.
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TOUGHNESS
(Chip & Crack Resistance)
Good to Exceptional |
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STABILITY
(To Heat, Light, Chemicals)
Very stable to many different conditions.
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CLEANING
Safe to ultrasonic or steam clean. |
OCCASIONS
April Birthstone
10th and 60th Wedding Anniversaries
Engagement
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Ideal Cut
A diamond cut to optimal proportions,
with optimal polish and symmetry, with
the most weight loss to produce maximum
luster, brilliance, dispersion, and
scintillation. They are the most valuable.
Only 5% of the round brilliant diamonds
on the market are cut to this standard.
Well Cut
Diamonds that have very good optical
beauty that fall just outside of the
parameters of Ideal cut diamonds. These
diamonds are priced less than Ideal
Cuts because they are not as rare.
Deep Cut
This diamond appears smaller than it
weighs because its weight is retained
in the depth. It is cut with a deep
pavilion (bottom of the diamond) that
does not properly reflect light back
through the crown (top of the diamond)
producing a dark appearing diamond that
lacks beauty. These diamonds are sometimes
called nail heads due to their dark,
face-up appearance.
Shallow Cut
Diamonds that are cut with shallow pavilions
that do not properly reflect light back
through their crown producing a washed-out
or watery appearance. Weight is retained
in the diameter, making the diamonds
appear larger than they weigh. These
diamonds are sometimes called fisheyes,
due to unsightly reflections in the
crown area.
Bow-Tie Effect
This is a dark area in the center of
some fancy-shaped diamonds. A large
bow-tie in the center of a fancy shaped
diamond detracts from the beauty and
lowers the value.

Gem Photo
Courtesy of AGS and ICA/Bart Curren
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