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What you should know.
(Information provided in cooperation with Jewelers of America,
Inc.)
Gold, one of the world's most precious metals, dates back
to the dawn of mankind. All great civilizations built up
treasuries of the lustrous metal, reserving golden objects
for their most important rituals.
However, the most alluring use of the sun-colored metal
has always been in jewelry. The Egyptians, largest producers
of gold in the ancient world, equated gold with the sun,
the giver of life, and reserved its use for pharaohs only.
The ancient Etruscans created meticulously handwrought objects
using fine granules and threads of gold, a technique still
practiced today.
To this day, Chinese and Indian brides wear jewelry of
no less than 24-karat gold on their wedding day to ensure
a lifetime of good luck and happiness.
A gift of gold jewelry says love and permanence as eloquently
today as in all the ages past.
The uniqueness of gold.
Of all the world's precious metals, only gold combines
the four basic characteristics that make it a universally
treasured possession.
- Beauty - Gold's natural color can be further
enhanced by alloying it with small amounts of other metals,
yielding a spectrum of exquisite, subtle shades. Metalsmiths
are able to create yellow, rose, green and white golds
by adjusting the alloys. More copper results in a soft
rose color; additional silver creates green gold; and
palladium produces white. A popular trend is to combine
two or more colors of gold in a single piece of jewelry.
- Purity - It is estimated that only slightly
more than 100,000 tons of gold have been taken from the
earth during all of recorded history. And although gold
can be found in rivers, seas and land in many parts of
the earth, it is not easily extracted. Opening a mine
is a time-consuming and costly operation, and several
tons of ore are required in order to produce just one
ounce of the precious metal.
- Durability - Look no further than the nearest
museum where gold jewelry, coins and artifacts from ancient
civilizations attest to the metal's enduring beauty and
permanence.
- Workability - Jewelers throughout the ages have
preferred gold to all other metals for its beauty and
ease of workmanship. Gold can be melted, or shaped, to
create any design. It can be alloyed with a number of
other metals to increase its strength and produce a variety
of colors and can be re-melted and used again to create
new designs.
How To Buy Karat Gold Jewelry
Look for the quality mark. Pure gold, or 24-karat,
is generally considered too soft for use in jewelry, so
it is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength.
Eighteen-karat gold is 18/24ths,
or three-quarters pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is
marked "18K" or "750," the European
designation meaning 75 percent gold.
In the United States, 14-karat gold is used most
commonly for jewelry. Fourteen-karat gold is 14/24ths,
or slightly more than one-half pure gold. Jewelry of this
fineness is marked "14K" or "585," the
European designation meaning 58.5 percent gold.
Nothing less than 10-karat gold can be legally
marked or sold as gold jewelry in the United States. These
pieces are marked "10k" or "417," the
European designation meaning 41.7 percent gold.
Look for trademarks accompanying the quality mark.
When a piece of jewelry is stamped with a quality mark,
the law requires that it be stamped with a hallmark or trademark
as well. Sometimes the jewelry is also marked with its country
of origin. These designations are designed to assure you
that you are buying genuine gold jewelry of the karatage
marked.
Gold comes in a variety of colors. Because gold
is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength, it
can also be made in a variety of colors. For example, yellow
gold is created by alloying the metal with copper and silver;
using copper only creates pink gold; white gold contains
platinum or palladium, zinc and copper; green gold contains
silver, copper and zinc.
Gold, one of the world's most precious metals,
dates back to the dawn of mankind. All great civilizations
built up treasuries of the lustrous metal, reserving golden
objects for their most important rituals.
Pricing is based on four factors: karatage, gram
weight, design and craftsmanship. The karatage and gram
weight tell you how much gold is in a piece, but other crucial
factors determining price are the piece's construction and
design. A price based solely on gram weight does not reflect
the work that has gone into the piece. It's important to
remember that each piece of gold jewelry is unique and,
if cared for properly, can last a lifetime.
Look for quality construction. When buying a piece
of gold jewelry, be sure to inspect it carefully. Pay special
attention to fasteners or clasps, making sure catches work
easily but are secure. Likewise, the backs of pins and earring
posts should be strong and firmly attached to the piece
with no soldering marks visible. With gold chain, lay it
flat and make sure the links don't kink or bend.
Your Gold Jewelry Wardrobe
Build a gold jewelry wardrobe in the same way you build
a clothing wardrobe. Always begin with the best-quality
basics you can afford and add pieces. Your basics are a
gold chain, necklace, classic hoop or button earrings, and
a link bracelet. Additions can include a slide-on pendant,
a pair of drop earrings where the bottoms can be detached
(thus creating two different looks) followed by a gold ring
or a pin. Begin with pieces that have classic shapes and
look appropriate with a variety of different outfits then
add pieces that offer versatility of wear or those with
a fashion touch, such as matte and polished surface treatments
or two or three tones of gold.
Caring for Your Gold Jewelry
- Remember that gold is lasting and durable but can get
scratched or dented if treated roughly.
- Gold's worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure can
weaken gold's structure, eventually leading to breakage.
So keep your jewelry away from chlorinated cleaning products
and out of swimming pools and jacuzzis.
- Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping
it wrapped in a soft cloth when not being worn.
- Clean your gold jewelry with a cleaning solution of
sudsy lukewarm water, or bring it to your local jeweler
and have it steam-cleaned.
- Dry and polish jewelry with a chamois or soft cloth
after cleaning and rinsing.
- Keep gold jewelry free from dust, moisture, perspiration
and makeup.
- Always inspect your gold jewelry for weakness or damage
and bring it to a professional jeweler for immediate repair.
Your jeweler will be able to restore it for you.
Where to Buy Karat Gold Jewelry
Now that you are ready to buy, the question that comes to
mind is where? You can buy gold jewelry in many types of
stores and "incredible discounts" are not hard
to find. Ben Bridge is dedicated to selling quality jewelry
at a good value. We sell at the same price every day and
do not believe in giving the consumer a fictitious sense
of value by ‘marking it up to mark it down’.
To make sure you get jewelry that you will be
happy with now and for years to come follow a simple rule:
buy from a professional, someone you can trust. Choose a
retailer who has been serving the community for a number
of years and has an established reputation. Ben Bridge is
a fourth generation family operated jeweler and we are active
in our community service organizations and the Chamber of
Commerce in the areas we have stores located.
Ask if the jeweler is a member of the Jewelers
of America and the American Gem Society. Ben Bridge is proud
to be affiliated with these fine organizations. JA and AGS
jewelers are knowledgeable and they have a wide selection
of fine jewelry that will make putting your gold jewelry
wardrobe together easy and fun. They will not only help
you with this purchase but they will be there in the future
to answer all your questions and help you with your purchases,
repairs, and custom design.
Additional information about Gold.
Surface treatments for gold jewelry that create patterns
and designs. Often finishes are mixed to create contrasting
effects.
Types of Finishes
- High Polish: Bright, shiny, highly reflective.
- Satin Finish: Light parallel lines sharply
reduce the metal reflections. Has a soft and lustrous
appearance.
- Matte: "Velvet-like" finish,
without shine but having a soft luster.
- Etched: Chemically or hand created designs
or patterns cut into the surface resulting in a textured
finish.
- Brushed: A light "satin-like"
finish, produced by a stiff metal brush. Can be applied
in a linear or circular pattern.
- Florentine: Parallel lines are engraved
in one direction, then lighter cross hatching or curved
strokes are made in the opposite direction. The lines
are deeper than on a brushed or satin finish.
- Hammered: Design created by hammering
directly onto the surface. Can be light or deep depending
on the type of hammer used.
- Engraved: A design is cut with a sharp-edged
tool.
- Diamond Cut: A faceted, bright look is
achieved by making tiny angled cuts to the surface.
- Filigree: Consists of fine wires that
are twisted together and then flattened and bent into
intricate designs. These delicate patterns are surrounded
by a framework of sturdier gold.
- Diamond Laser: Highly reflective finish
created by hammering the surface with a faceted, diamond-tipped
tool.
- Granulated: Small, rounded gold particles
placed by hand on a gold surface and fastened by a heating
process.
- Enameled: Fusing colored glass onto metal
surface.
- Embossed: Shaping a pattern in relief
in sheet metal.
Gold Jewelry Manufacturing Techniques
- Lost Wax Casting: The process of duplicating
an object by forcing molten metal into a mold.
Jewelry can be reproduced quickly, practically and exactly
by any of several casting methods; centrifugal or
vacuum casting are most common. Casting has greatly influenced
and changed the design and manufacture of jewelry; A gold
jewelry object which requires considerable labor cost
to fabricate by hand can be cast for significantly less.
- Chain: Nearly all chain is a series of
connected loops of metal wire. Chain links are generally
assembled, soldered (joined together), and then limbered
up to make them flexible. Today, although handmade gold
chain is available, most chain is produced by computer-controlled
machines, which can be programmed to produce a wide variety
of different designs.
- Die striking/stamping: A process in which
jewelry items are pressed out, partially or completely,
by driving hardened steel dies of the desired shape into
a sheet of gold under pressure. The process lends itself
well to mass production.
- Electroforming: The process of forming
objects by the electrolytic deposition of a
metal (gold) on a mod or mandrel (usually wax). The mold
or mandrel is later removed, resulting in a strong but
hollow piece of gold jewelry. Electroforming allows for
intricately designed, dimensional pieces of karat gold
jewelry. Electroforming should not be confused with electroplating.
Each of these manufacturing techniques includes the
final steps of cleaning and polishing to bring out the beauty
of the finished gold jewelry item.
Non-Karat Gold Jewelry Techniques
- Gold filled, gold overlay: A layer of
10K gold or better mechanically bonded to all significant
surfaces. This layer of gold must be at least 1/20th of
the total metal weight or it cannot be described as gold
filled (typical quality mark - 1/20th 12K GF or 12 Karat
Gold Filled.)
- Gold plate, rolled gold plate: The same
as gold filled except the quantity of karat gold may be
less than 1/20th of the total metal weight. (Typical quality
mark-1/40th 12K RGP).
- Gold electroplate: An electrolytic process
where a coating of gold of not less than 10K fineness,
with a minimum thickness equivalent to 7 millionths of
an inch, is affixed to all significant surfaces.
- Vermeil: Gold with a minimum fineness
of 10K mechanically bonded or electroplated over a base
of sterling silver. The thickness of gold must be at least
120 millionths of an inch.
Gold Weight
For centuries, the troy system has been used for weighing
gold and other precious metals. Internationally quoted gold
prices are based on 24K gold and the troy ounce. For example
the gold price you read in the newspaper reflects the price
of one troy ounce.
Troy Weight
|
24 grains (gr)
20 pennyweights
12 ounces (troy) (t.)
|
=
=
= |
1 pennyweight (dwt.)
1 ounce (oz t.)
1 pound (lb t.) |
=
=
= |
1.5552 grams
31.1035 grams
373.2417 grams |
1 ounce (troy) (t.) = 1.09714 ounces avoirdupois
1 pound (troy) (t.) = 0.82286 pounds avoirdupois
To Convert
pennyweights to grams:
ounces (t.) to grams:
grams to pennyweights:
grams to ounces (t.): |
pennyweights
ounces (t.)
grams
grams |
x
x
x
x |
1.5552
31.1035
0.6430
0.0322 |
> |
= grams
= grams
= pennyweights
= ounces (t.) |
Alloy
Gold in its purest state, 24 karat, is often considered
too soft for use in jewelry. Gold is mixed or ALLOYED with
one or more other metals to produce optimum strength and
color characteristics.
How alloys affect the color of gold:
Color
Yellow Gold
White Gold
Green Gold
Pink Gold |
Elements
Gold, Copper, Silver
Gold, Nickel or Palladium, Zinc, Copper
Gold, Copper, Silver, Zinc
Gold, Copper |
(For the percentage of allows in a piece of gold jewelry, refer
to karat gold.)
Karat
A measurement of fineness (purity) equal to 1/24 pure gold
in an alloy. Pure or fine gold is 24 karat, 14 karat means
14 parts of 24 are pure gold, mixed with 10 parts of other
metal.
Karat Gold
A gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness (in the
U.S.)
| Karatage
|
|
Gold Content
|
|
Fineness
|
24K
18K
14K
10K |
=
=
=
= |
100%
75%
58.3%
41.6% |
=
=
=
= |
.999
.750
.583
.416 |
Minimum legal standard of karatage in:
-
USA
10K
-
Canada
9K
- Mexico 8K
A karat mark is applied, because registered US trademarks are
required by federal law (the National Gold and Silver Marking
Act). A karat mark along with a registered US trademark
will assure you that the gold is of the specified quality.
Any suspected violation of this Act should be reported in
writing to:
The Jewelers Vigilance Committee
401 East 34th Street, Suite N13A
New York, NY 10016
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